Its been a while since I've climb any signicant peak. Cloest I've come was a gaunt up icicle buttress and classic crack. Both satiating in their own right, but both training and scale of the objective minimized it in my head.
Nevertheless, That was fun. I don't really want to talk too much about it. What I do want to talk about is the future. What it holds. What my objectives are. Where climbing and skiing fit in my priorities and tangible movements. I don't mind soloing big stuff. I've done enough, learned what its about, self-resume (unfortunately) and also my limits as well. With limits comes what you are willing to give up in the sheme of things. IF its everything the climbing world opens up, but usually only for a quick second. With time comes experience with experience comes wisdom. Very true for climbing.
Since lists are fun, i'll do a top 5 of real, serious objectives from now until 2016.
1. Dragontail Triple C
2. Mt Stuart Sherpa Route solo.
3. Mt Colchuck
4. Prussic in winter.
5. Ski a technical line off a peak
6. Do a link up of three peaks (bivy allowed)
7. Do Stuart Glacier Couloir
I'll leave it at that. The list may contract or expand. I'll keep you updated with videos and hopefully lots of photos.
Bye for now.
Sunday, November 22, 2015
Friday, November 2, 2012
Sunday, April 22, 2012
Index. Spring fun.
Friday, April 13, 2012
It's been a while!
I feel like I've been neglecting my blogsphere. I haven't been climbing as much because I've been focusing on grad school/ my girlfriend, Lacy. And throw in stress about prospective work and actual work mixed with play and you've got a perfect storm. My Spring Break starts soon (after I finish a project, we've finished classes).
Anyways, I'm brainstorming how I can balance photography with other endeavors. So far, I am doing a pretty good job of that. But I can always improve. Looks like I've done well in all of my classes.
Anyways, I usually use this blog for climbing but it seemed like the perfect place to do a life update post.
Cheers and good day.
Colin James Bartholomew
Anyways, I'm brainstorming how I can balance photography with other endeavors. So far, I am doing a pretty good job of that. But I can always improve. Looks like I've done well in all of my classes.
Anyways, I usually use this blog for climbing but it seemed like the perfect place to do a life update post.
Cheers and good day.
Colin James Bartholomew
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
NY Gully
So, two weeks out almost exactly since my injury at Snoqualmie Peak. The details of that foray will have to wait for another situation.
2/12/12 11:58 pm-I had been yearning for an adventure. I found someone on cc.com who agreed to climb with me. I asked if he wanted to do the NE Buttress of Chair peak or NY Gully, provided he knew the approach to NY Gully. Turns out he knew it well. We would meet at some ungodly hour and head up to climb this lurking beast. His name was Scott and he went by ColdIron on cc.com.
I knew about this route via cc.com and specifically via Wayne Wallace, local hardman climber.
The fact that I heard about this route through this channel is a tell-tale sign and very much reflected the quality and character of the route.
I had only really heard small mumblings about it and some heads up sections that were a little dicey.
I dismissed any doubt in my head outright. Alpine climbs are never as hard as people make them out to be. Besides two technical sections, Triple C on Dragontail was essentially the composite of a marathon and a snow slog (and a big emphasis on the Besides.)
With Triple C in my mind for druation x technical aspects, I came to this climb with mixed feelings. I knew the climb would be slightly shorter than Triple C, and probably more technical (as it was- having a couple sections of dead-vertical water ice, and a very technical mixed pitch.)
Scott and I meet around 3:30 in the Alpental parking lot. Soon, we're sorting gear getting ready. I am mostly ready so there's a little waiting around but NBD. We chat about rack and rope, you know, normal climber BS.
I take the rope. Damnit. This would prove useful later in the day. But that is another story.
We gear up in the pre-dawn cold, and trudge our way up the beaten down snow path with our skis. We hold a solid pace. The skinning is icy at best. Some of the slopes were very steep and sketchy, especially while wearing a pack. Soon enough we arrive at the notch where I stash mt skis. Scott skis down to the base of the route. We then hiked up to the true start of the climb together. My first impression was that the climb looked much bigger than I had expected. Scott takes the first lead. He was not fast but made consistent progress. I was cold, having not brought a hard-shell because mine was being replaced.
While belaying, I look down and see two climbers coming up to the route. "Is that Colin?" I reply, "Yea."
"It's Will and Chris." They came up and we chatted for a bit while they decided if they wanted to continue, despite the fact that we were in front of them. By now Scott had set up a belay and brought me up. We agreed that Scott would take the next lead as well, since he had the gear and we wanted to move fast.
By the middle of the second pitch I saw that Will and Chris were looking at us from the Notch. They watched for a good hour. The second pitch was definitely in good condition. I took the third pitch- the crux.
The beginning was easy snow slogging, but then a head-wall appeared and a single crack split the face. I had heard it went free at 5.8, but I didn't know the mixed grade. I decided, after some tries, to aid one or two moves. After some considerable work (this wasn't aiding at Index by any stretch of the imagination), I made it past the headwall, only to face scary mixed conditions. At least I had good gear below me. I scratched my way up and set up a belay. From here, Scott brought us to the true top of the climb, where we made one rappel into a couliour.
We sorted gear and he got on his skis and we went down to the notch to get my skis. We traversed for a good half mile before dropping down towards Alpental. On the way down, Scott and I got separated. I was skiing over what looked like a mound of snow that turned out to be a small 20 foot water fall about 75 degrees.
I skiied across rock and landed on a sharp stump. The pain was a bit overwhelming at first, but I told myself to breath and that helped somewhat. After I composed myself, I realized I was bleeding. I was worried about bleeding out, so I called my dad. He told me to call 911. After talking to the operator, they told me to head down where they would meet me. I donned my skis and gear and headed down. Unfortunatly, I ended up above a large waterfall. Thankfully I had the rope and was able to make two rappels. Scott met me at the bottom. I could see aid cars in the parking lot. I skiied down to them while Scott coiled the rope. The medics told me I could drive to the hospital. Once there, they called a modified trauma on me and I got a CT and blood work and dilauded, as well as two IV's. After probably 3 hours they released me. I could barely walk because my leg had been banged up in the fall. I was prescribed two antibiotics and percocet. Two weeks out and I'm not quite fully recovered. I can rock climb and ski now, thankfully.
This accident could have been prevented. My urgency that was precipitated by losing Scott caused me to make a split second judgement call that I might have not made otherwise. Thankfully I had the rope and was able to descend quickly. Also, it was good that I did not bleed out more than I did.
.jpg)
All in all, I'm happy that it was not worse.
2/12/12 11:58 pm-I had been yearning for an adventure. I found someone on cc.com who agreed to climb with me. I asked if he wanted to do the NE Buttress of Chair peak or NY Gully, provided he knew the approach to NY Gully. Turns out he knew it well. We would meet at some ungodly hour and head up to climb this lurking beast. His name was Scott and he went by ColdIron on cc.com.
I knew about this route via cc.com and specifically via Wayne Wallace, local hardman climber.
The fact that I heard about this route through this channel is a tell-tale sign and very much reflected the quality and character of the route.
I had only really heard small mumblings about it and some heads up sections that were a little dicey.
I dismissed any doubt in my head outright. Alpine climbs are never as hard as people make them out to be. Besides two technical sections, Triple C on Dragontail was essentially the composite of a marathon and a snow slog (and a big emphasis on the Besides.)
With Triple C in my mind for druation x technical aspects, I came to this climb with mixed feelings. I knew the climb would be slightly shorter than Triple C, and probably more technical (as it was- having a couple sections of dead-vertical water ice, and a very technical mixed pitch.)
Scott and I meet around 3:30 in the Alpental parking lot. Soon, we're sorting gear getting ready. I am mostly ready so there's a little waiting around but NBD. We chat about rack and rope, you know, normal climber BS.
I take the rope. Damnit. This would prove useful later in the day. But that is another story.
We gear up in the pre-dawn cold, and trudge our way up the beaten down snow path with our skis. We hold a solid pace. The skinning is icy at best. Some of the slopes were very steep and sketchy, especially while wearing a pack. Soon enough we arrive at the notch where I stash mt skis. Scott skis down to the base of the route. We then hiked up to the true start of the climb together. My first impression was that the climb looked much bigger than I had expected. Scott takes the first lead. He was not fast but made consistent progress. I was cold, having not brought a hard-shell because mine was being replaced.
While belaying, I look down and see two climbers coming up to the route. "Is that Colin?" I reply, "Yea."
"It's Will and Chris." They came up and we chatted for a bit while they decided if they wanted to continue, despite the fact that we were in front of them. By now Scott had set up a belay and brought me up. We agreed that Scott would take the next lead as well, since he had the gear and we wanted to move fast.
By the middle of the second pitch I saw that Will and Chris were looking at us from the Notch. They watched for a good hour. The second pitch was definitely in good condition. I took the third pitch- the crux.
The beginning was easy snow slogging, but then a head-wall appeared and a single crack split the face. I had heard it went free at 5.8, but I didn't know the mixed grade. I decided, after some tries, to aid one or two moves. After some considerable work (this wasn't aiding at Index by any stretch of the imagination), I made it past the headwall, only to face scary mixed conditions. At least I had good gear below me. I scratched my way up and set up a belay. From here, Scott brought us to the true top of the climb, where we made one rappel into a couliour.
We sorted gear and he got on his skis and we went down to the notch to get my skis. We traversed for a good half mile before dropping down towards Alpental. On the way down, Scott and I got separated. I was skiing over what looked like a mound of snow that turned out to be a small 20 foot water fall about 75 degrees.
I skiied across rock and landed on a sharp stump. The pain was a bit overwhelming at first, but I told myself to breath and that helped somewhat. After I composed myself, I realized I was bleeding. I was worried about bleeding out, so I called my dad. He told me to call 911. After talking to the operator, they told me to head down where they would meet me. I donned my skis and gear and headed down. Unfortunatly, I ended up above a large waterfall. Thankfully I had the rope and was able to make two rappels. Scott met me at the bottom. I could see aid cars in the parking lot. I skiied down to them while Scott coiled the rope. The medics told me I could drive to the hospital. Once there, they called a modified trauma on me and I got a CT and blood work and dilauded, as well as two IV's. After probably 3 hours they released me. I could barely walk because my leg had been banged up in the fall. I was prescribed two antibiotics and percocet. Two weeks out and I'm not quite fully recovered. I can rock climb and ski now, thankfully.
This accident could have been prevented. My urgency that was precipitated by losing Scott caused me to make a split second judgement call that I might have not made otherwise. Thankfully I had the rope and was able to descend quickly. Also, it was good that I did not bleed out more than I did.
.jpg)
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Soloing?
I solo for a variety of reasons. The peace, speed, and challenge are just a few of them. But, the truth remains that it is still the most dangerous type of climbing. I found out the hard way that soloing can be dangerous when I broke my fibula glissading after soloing the North Face of Chair Peak. Trip Report HERE. I was able to ski out and thus self-rescue but it was a clear reminder why soloing is dangerous. You make all your own decisions. There is no such thing as consensus when you are alone.
I am currently pretty hesitant to solo anything hard after the North Face of Chair experience. Even though it ended well, I am still hesitant. Soloing is selfish. You run higher risks while soloing and thus push the limits and increase the chances that you are going to die in the mountains. On the other hand, it is utterly liberating and exhilarating to feel yourself so in control in such a dangerous spot. There is a rush that comes from the commitment in soloing that you don't get in many other places in this life.
Almost no one solos thinking they might fall. Almost everyone solos knowing they won't fall. However, some people do fall and die soloing. So, there is a bit of self-deception in soloing. That is why it should be reserved for special climbs and experienced climbers who know their limits. Ideally, soloing should be done on routes that the climber has mastered while tied into a rope. Often, while tied to someone, the rope is either a hindrance, a danger to both climbers, or a deception. That is because, on hard alpine climbs, sometimes the protection is bad or not present at all. In these cases, soloing is actually safer than roped climbing. However, in the vast majority of cases, using a rope is safer.
In the future, I hope to solo to some extent. However, I need, want and plan to carefully evaluate my motivations behind soloing. If I am doing it to prove something to someone else, I won't do it. If I am doing it for the pure fun of fast movement on technical terrain, I am more apt to go for it.
I am currently pretty hesitant to solo anything hard after the North Face of Chair experience. Even though it ended well, I am still hesitant. Soloing is selfish. You run higher risks while soloing and thus push the limits and increase the chances that you are going to die in the mountains. On the other hand, it is utterly liberating and exhilarating to feel yourself so in control in such a dangerous spot. There is a rush that comes from the commitment in soloing that you don't get in many other places in this life.
Almost no one solos thinking they might fall. Almost everyone solos knowing they won't fall. However, some people do fall and die soloing. So, there is a bit of self-deception in soloing. That is why it should be reserved for special climbs and experienced climbers who know their limits. Ideally, soloing should be done on routes that the climber has mastered while tied into a rope. Often, while tied to someone, the rope is either a hindrance, a danger to both climbers, or a deception. That is because, on hard alpine climbs, sometimes the protection is bad or not present at all. In these cases, soloing is actually safer than roped climbing. However, in the vast majority of cases, using a rope is safer.
In the future, I hope to solo to some extent. However, I need, want and plan to carefully evaluate my motivations behind soloing. If I am doing it to prove something to someone else, I won't do it. If I am doing it for the pure fun of fast movement on technical terrain, I am more apt to go for it.
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
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